FWIW you might have beena bit shy on tape unless yours is gas tape or something. When I was doing our rads I used about 12 turns of tape, and tightened the tails up so they were still very slightly "on the tape" rather than grinding metal on metal with a long wrench. Maybe force of habit after fitting the outside tap - the first attempt was at a comedic angle until I tried again with more tape.

to fit and remove valve tails? - Wonkee Donkee Tools How to fit and remove valve tails? - Wonkee Donkee Tools

Kind of impossible for me to say - not least because I am only a DIYer, so have done 10s of not thousands of joints. I generally tend to go for around five or six turns. In my experience, that's enough to feel the string fluff up in the joint but without having to apply undue torque to tighten. Like you, my adjustable is about 250mm long. I've never felt the need to force it, and never had a leak, but I guess one man's force is another's light nip so I don't know whether you can read anything in to that! You might need to replace the head of the valve that the washer sits on which you take from another valve.

🍪 Privacy & Transparency

If you have a leaking thermostatic radiator valve (TRV), and it’s coming from the pin at the top of the valve, then you will probably have to replace the full valve. I understand that the fitting on the radiator is 1/2" BSP, while the radiator tails are 1/2" Taper Thread. Another thing a plumber told me is to always screw the tails in without any ptfe first, unscrew and hoover any metal shavings. When I did radiators (ooh, I enjoyed typing that...), I always tried several tails (I kept spares) and having found the tightest, used liquid PTFE (Flomasta - Screwfix sell it, type in 5321J) instead of tape on both threads (ie the tail's and the rad's). He's using Loctite 55, which is not PTFE tape. It's a highly fibrous string that frays asyou do up the joint, filling any gaps. Based on my experience of using it, the OP has applied it correctly. If anything, 5-6 turns is a little too much.

What size are standard rad tails? - BestHeating Advice Centre

However, rad tail sizes can vary from 8mm to nearly 30mm across the full range of different models, which are also available in a choice of different shapes and materials. The male thread is 1/2 inch BSP (normal size for the connections on a radiator) the tail has a compression nut and olive (included) to suit a valve with a 15mm compression type outlet.I've never been in your situation, but I have seen a plumber using ls-x on both threads (radiator and tail) as well as the ptfe tape. Refit the tail and tighten with an adjustable spanner (make sure it’s very tight or it will leak, add more PTFE if it’s not tight enough)

Leaking radiator tail | PlumbersForums.net Leaking radiator tail | PlumbersForums.net

I have been fitting and fixing radiators full-time for over a decade and have learned a lot along the way. To fix a leaking radiator drain valve, you will need to replace the rubber washer seal inside in most cases.My logic for applying it to the first of the threads up to half way, was to prevent the Loctite 55 from being visible once the radiator tail was fitted. James - Many thanks - much appreciated. Did you find that the Loctite 55 was water tight on the first attempt ? Standard rad tails tend to measure at 15mm, in line with the most common pipe size also being 15mm. Once you have found exactly where the leak is coming from it should be a case of tightening the nut.

Radiator Tail Extensions - Trade Radiators

James - many many thanks - one very last question - when I said the lower half, sorry, I meant the first of the threads up to half way.If it’s leaking from a nut on the bottom or side of the TRV, then you should follow the process above for a “ leaking radiator valve nut“. Radiator Drain Valve Leaking Yes, a leaking radiator valve can be repaired. It might have to be replaced, but most of the time a leaking radiator valve can easily be repaired with an adjustable spanner. Is a leaking radiator valve an emergency? I first inserted the new radiator tails in the ends of the radiator dry to gauge how far it they would go when tightened up. Draining the system and adding some jointing compound or PTFE tape is the next level to fix a radiator that is leaking. This is a lot harder but needs to be done. If the bleed screw is sitting in a bigger nut, then you can try tightening the nut with an adjustable spanner.